Most dogs do not like to have their nails trimed.  What can you do to help your dog? 

1. When petting, rub their toes and nails. This gets them used to being handled.

2. Take a nail file and file thier nails.  This will help them with the sensation of nail filing, but for some dogs, this might be a better choice, if the dog gets nervous when being groomed. They trust their owners more than they trust a stranger.  It takes some time, but it is possible. 

3. Whichever you decided to try, give a treat afterwards.

4. Do not (and I really mean "NOT"), tease your dog by grabing its toes.  It may seem fun to you, but it is not for your dog.  Doing so will make your dog impossible to have its nails trimmed or filed.

If you decide to trim your dogs nails yourself then their are a few things you need to know.

1. Get a good quality nail trimmer.

2. Inside the nail is a vein called "the quick", it is the blood supply to the nail. If you cut the nail too short, don't panic. Use Quick Stop (from the pet store) or baking flour from your kitchen.  Put a pinch on the end of the nail and hold it there for a few moments to stop the bleeding. 

3. You can see the quick in white nails (it is the pink part).  Black nails are a little harder but if you just trim a little off every few weeks you will get the nails to a proper length.  On some dogs you can look at the underside of the nail and see the quick.  Ask your vet or groomer to show you where the quicks are if you are unsure.

4. Don't forget the dew claws - this is the small nail on the inner side of the foot (sort of like a thumb).  Dogs do not walk on these so they can grow very long and twisted.  If they are long, get a professional to help you out with  them.

What can happen if you do not trim the nails?

The dog can have its nails grow into the pads of the foot. The toes can splay outward, also it can cause hip and foot problems.

Brushing your dog several times a week is a great idea.  It not only bonds the two of you, it also keeps the dog hair off of the couch. It also keeps long haired dogs from getting mats. 

Most groomers will offer a brush out service so if you do not have time to brush at home, a brush out every week or two between grooms and baths will keep your dogs coat in much better shape.

Line brushing is when you push the hair back and comb a line of hair at a time.  This way you are not simply brushing the surface of the coat.  If you are having trouble with this, ask your groomer and they can show you.

Short Haired Dogs - a sheding blade (check it out at the pet supply store), keep your wrist straight and brush the same direction as the coat lays. Do not use too hard of pressure.

Long Haired Dogs - Start with a poodle comb. You can buy them at the Petropolitan in Dallas or on-line at petedge.com.  First, brush the direction the hair lays. When you come across a mat, pick at it until it breaks apart (do this with a light touch so you do not cause pain to your dog).  You can rub some corn starch into the mat to help loosen it.  Next use a smaller toothed comb to brush out and get more shedded hairs out of the coat. A soft slicker brush (not a universal slicker) is also very good for brushing out a mat.

Malteese owners - only use combs if you keep the coat in a longer length.  Unversal or hard slickers can cause split ends and will cause more mats.

Thick coats such as Chow Chows or Pomeranians - use a soft slicker and work backward through the coat. Line brush by working up from the back feet, up the legs, up the back toward the neck, continue this for the entire dog.

Brush burn is an abrasion on the skin it comes from brushing too hard.  Dogs skin is very sensitive, so a lighter touch is a better aproach.  Also slow down a bit. If you come across a mat, you won't pull it so hard and your dog will thank you for not hurting them.   So if you are wondering why you should keep your wrist straight - the reason is that brushing can be hard on the wrist and you do not want any repetitive motion injuries.    

Here are some quick pointers on how to find the right groomer.

1. First ask friends and vets about who they take their dogs to.

2. Ask to see the groomers work area (including bathing area) does it look and smell clean?

3. Watch the groomer at work.  How do they handle the dog on their table? Do they seem to have compassion for the dog they are working on (just rember, some dogs are difficult on the table, but they should be gentle and in controle of the dog).

4. Ask questions - where did the groomer learn to groom, has the groomer ever had first aid or dog CPR training, is there a vet close by, what kinds of shampoos are offered (longer list to come - check back soon).

5. Find out if there is an up charge on shampoos, conditioners, medicated shampoos or flea shampoos, also find out if there are any other charges that could be added on to the bill.  You don't want any surprises.

Most groomers are caring folks who take the best care of your dog, however you do not know how your dog is being cared for after you drop it off. Here are some things that you need to address when you are picking out a groomer.

How are the dogs being dryed -  Hot cage dryers can overheat or even kill a dog  - a fan or a cool air dryer is a safe method.  A high volocity dryer is fine for a big long haired dog, but it would be very frightening to a puppy or a nervous dog.  Ask which kind of dryer will be used.

Kennel cages are often used to house the dogs before and after the groom, do the dogs get to set on towels or blankets? Some kennel floors are wire and can catch toes or tags on the collars.

Are the dogs left unattened on the grooming table - dogs have a loop around their neck to keep the dogs still and safe on the table. However if they are left unattened, they could try to jump off the table and hang themselves.

If no grooming loop is used, then there is a risk of the dog breaking a leg jumping off of the table.

Also if you dog has a soft treacia (common in small dogs such as yorkies) the groomer should loop the dog differently to not make the condition worse.